What began as a French immigrant’s fruity, complex bottled syrup is making a comeback in more than just Shirley Temples.

Another week, it’s bell-bottoms or nap dresses. (It’s a thing, apparently.) Wine is no different. Some years, it’s all about ‘Pet Nat,’ which are sparkling wines that finish fermenting in the bottle.

Though nonalcoholic wines aren’t a new invention, good ones are. The first one I tasted, more than 20 years ago at a Thanksgiving dinner, was little more than dark grape juice in a fancy bottle, and ...